Harbin barbecue is northeastern-style skewer cooking: lamb, beef, chicken wings, vegetables, and offal, grilled over charcoal and seasoned with cumin, chili, and salt. It is informal, cheap, and everywhere. The restaurants range from tiny street-side operations to multi-floor halls, and the best ones are busy late into the night.
In short
Order a mix of skewers, a cold dish, and something starchy. Expect to cook some items yourself at the table. It is a social meal, not a refined one, and it is one of the best ways to eat cheaply in the city.
What to order
Start with lamb and beef skewers, chicken wings, and a vegetable or two. Add grilled bread or noodles for ballast. If you are adventurous, try the offal skewers; they are part of the local repertoire and usually better than they sound. Cold beer or a hot drink cuts through the fat.
Order in rounds rather than all at once. Skewers are best straight off the grill, and the table grill lets you keep things warm. If you are unsure about spice, ask for 'bu la' (not spicy) and add chili oil yourself.
How the table works
Many restaurants bring a small charcoal grill to the table. Some items arrive cooked; others need a minute on the grill. Staff will usually show you what to do, but do not be afraid to ask. The smoke is part of the experience; wear clothes you do not mind smelling of charcoal.
The bill is calculated by skewer count, so keep the sticks or let the staff count them. It is easy to over-order when everything is cheap. Start with ten skewers per person and add more if you are still hungry.
Where to go
Good barbecue is spread across the city, with clusters in Nangang, Daowai, and residential streets outside the tourist core. The Hongzhuan Street area is a convenient starting point if you are staying centrally.
Avoid anywhere with a large photo menu and a host waving you in. The best places are busy with locals and have a limited menu. If you are travelling solo, sit at the counter and order a few skewers at a time. The food guide has more on the city's eating culture.
Verdict
Cheap, social, and reliable. Order in rounds, ask for mild, and do not wear your best coat.
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